Posted by: ~BGF~ | October 7, 2010

Natural Hair Part 2

I joined in a hair discussion on a site a while back. Someone made a comment about their hair. I’m reposting it here in the hopes that it will be useful. Here is her comment and my response.

Comment:

I am trying to hang on in there but my head looks like a Brillo pad….a hot mess….like I said now I been washing it and putting hair wax in it and just rolling…..it’s curly but still…..looking like a Brillo pad.

But I’ve been watching You tube clips….not sure which direction I want to go…..and I do live like 4 blocks away from some natural hair salons. I might just find somebody to braid my hair…

Response:

If your hair is dry, wax will make it worse because it’s a barrier to moisture. You may be able to use it as a sealant, but personally I wouldn’t. If your hair is curly while wet, normally if you add a leave in or something to coat it, it will dry that way if you want it to.  You can’t handle it in the mean time or it will frizz or fro. Even though you are natural, you still have to deep condition. If you have scab hair, or hair that is damaged from relaxing or straightening it to blend in with your new growth, sometimes it just has to grow out.  Your texture will change as it grows out, but sometimes it can take a year or more.  If you are shampooing daily, you might want to switch to conditioner washes instead. If you aren’t using heavy products, conditioner by itself or even rinsing is enough to clean your hair, and it wont strip it so you will have less frizz. Oil is not a moisturizer, though it can be used to seal it in. If your hair is very dry, increasing how often you wash will help, if you aren’t stripping your hair with each wash. If you are going to conditioner wash, don’t use heavy pomades, use light oils. Also some products have “cones” in them, which can only be removed from the hair with shampoo. They make your hair look great at first, but they coat the hair, and can cause your hair to be dry or dull looking. I have nothing against cones, but if you use a product with them, then you will need to use shampoo more often. There are water soluble cones that will break down with just water. More info on cones:

http://thebeautybrains.com/2007/01/23/what-silicones-do-for-your-hair/

List of cone free conditioners:

http://www.longhaircareforum.com/showthread.php?t=196051

Shampoo list you may be intersted in:

http://archive.longhaircommunity.com/showthread.php?t=34009

List of commonly used hair product ingredients:

http://motowngirl.com/index.php/commonly-used-ingredients.html

Cone List:

Here’s a list from naturallycurly.com. The water soluble ‘cones are less likely to build up:

 

Amodimethicone……….not soluble in water by itself

Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride……….mixture that is soluble in water in the bottle

Behenoxy Dimethicone……….Sparingly soluble in water

Cetearyl methicone……….not soluble in water

Cetyl Dimethicone……….not soluble in water

Cyclomethicone……….not soluble in water

Cyclopentasiloxane……….not soluble in water

Dimethicone……….not soluble in water

Dimethicone Copolyol……….water soluble

Dimethicone copolyol……….water soluble

Dimethiconol……….not soluble in water

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane……….water soluble

Stearoxy Dimethicone……….Sparingly soluble in water

Stearyl Dimethicone……….not soluble in water

Trimethylsilylamodimethicone……….not soluble in water

Lauryl methicone copolyol……….water soluble

 

You will have to spend a lot of time finding the products that work for you. When I started out I had to be heavy handed with my hair products because my hair would drink up anything I put in it. Now that all the chemicals are out and I have no heat damage, my cuticles are sealed and it doesn’t take a lot to get the job done.  Order one of the sample packs from Qhemet and start there. The Honey Tea Gel and Heavy cream work well together.  Myhoneychild.com has a cream I used to use, called buttery soy cream, that worked well too.  http://myhoneychild.com/inc/sdetail/211

I use a leave in called Giovanni Direct Leave in. It doesn’t work well under gels though.  http://www.luckyvitamin.com/item/itemKey/62455

It costs 8-9 bucks locally at health food stores, under five bucks at luckyvitamin.com.  You can also purchase liter sizes at a very reasonable price at massagewarehouse.com. I use the Fantasia IC gel in clear or blue. It doesn’t mix well with the giovanni though and it’s not a moisturizer.

I’m sort of limited with the products that I can recommend, because I’m avoiding parabens, a set of preservatives that can mimic estrogen in your body. Several of the product lines I listed are from black women who went natural, and couldn’t find anything that worked for their hair, and created their own, and many only use natural preservatives. Don’t be afraid to try products from “white” companies “designed” for caucasian hair. I only mention this because some folx believe if it doesn’t say it’s specifically for black hair, that they cant use it. It’s only marketing. You just want to go for moisturizing  products for dry hair, as products that say they add volume will normally be too light weight or drying.

There are a lot of products that work well that you can get locally. I think the Elasta QP Mango butter is great, and it smells great. I only stopped using it because of the parabens.  When I went natural, I relied heavily on product recommendations and online ordering, especially since I was avoiding parabens.

If you haven’t already, I strong suggest joining a forum and asking for recommendations. Naturally curly.com is a great place since the members there try new products daily. They can help you type your hair and help you try stuff out.

Info on typing:

If you scroll down, these pages has different pics and explanations of hair types.

http://www.curls.biz/learn-about-curls/curls-product-guide.html

http://www.naturallycurly.com/hair-types

Don’t let some folx make you think that hair typing determines “good” or “bad” hair. (If it’s healthy, it’s good hair.) It was designed to help find products that will work well with different hair types, and types 1-4 are based on the SIZE of the curl in your hair, and has NOTHING to do with texture. You can be a 4a with fine texture or coarse texture. 1 has no curl, 4 has very tight curls. When the hair typing came out (by this stylist named Andre) There were a lot of black women left out because they had hair between type 3b and 4a. It was unofficially added as 3C. I am mostly 4a, with some 3c at the nape. One other thing, don’t be surprised to have diff textures. I have 3 different ones. My crown is very coarse and dry, the nape is thinner and curlier, and the rest is in between.

Note: I listed several forums and hair care sites in the previous post, Natural Hair Part 1.

Posted by: ~BGF~ | October 4, 2010

Natural Hair Part 1

My last relaxer was June 2004, and I did the Big Chop Feb 2005. My most challenging part is finding new ways to do my hair. I mostly wear it in a ponytail/puff, or two strand twists. There are tons of styles out there, and if I went to a natural salon I’d have no problem, its just I haven’t taken the time to really just play with my hair and determine its true potential. I’m broke so I need to be a do-it-myselfer.

I had compiled this information in response to questions I often receive.  Here are some natural hair resources, youtube channels and vids to help, plus some other info.  Many black folx have some type of curl pattern, rather or not they have a silky texture.  Type 4b has a z or non curl pattern.  (more on hair typing in pt 2) So don’t be  discouraged by the descriptions of may sites referring to curls, chances are you have them, if not the care information is still valuable.

Youtube:

________

LadyLibra:

http://www.youtube.com/user/ladylibra1982

MeganJerai:

http://www.youtube.com/user/meganjerai

Medzi:

http://www.youtube.com/user/mwedzi

Katelynlyn (braiding tutorials) she is AWESOME!:

http://www.youtube.com/user/Katelynylyn

Empress Ri she buys & reviews EVERYTHING!:

http://www.youtube.com/user/richeau


Bloggers:

_________

Lexi with the Curls blog:

http://curlscoilsandkinks.com/

Curly Nikki:

http://www.curlynikki.com/

Newly Natural:

http://newlynatural.com/blog/

If you start there there are tons of links to related videos as you view them.

For products Qhemet Biologics are great. They are the first products my hair responded well to after I went natural. They have sample packs available:

http://www.qhemetbiologics.com/

Oyin has lots of nice stuff too, and they all smell great:

http://oyinhandmade.com/shop/

Some more product lines:

________________________

http://missjessies.com/01_shop/shop_list.htm

http://myhoneychild.com/

http://www.blendedbeauty.com/

http://www.mixedchicks.net/

http://naani.com/

http://www.kinky-curly.com/

http://hairveda.com/default.aspx

http://www.curls.biz/

The hair rules author, Anthony Dickey,  has a product line, reviews are mixed. I’d love to make it to his salon one day:

http://www.hairrules.com/index_flash.cfm

His myspace:

http://www.myspace.com/myhairrules

These you can find locally:

http://www.rastagroup.com

Currently I am using Shea Moisture products, which can be found at target, for 10.00 each:

http://www.target.com/s?keywords=shea+moisture&searchNodeID=1038576%7C1287991011&ref=sr_bx_1_1&x=0&y=0

I also leave the Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier. Her official site:

http://www.naturalhair.org/

I will do a post on my regimen later. I also use Jane Carter Revitalizing Leave-In conditioner and Kinky Curly Curling Custard (KCCC). All the products I use can be found at target.

Naturally Curly is a good resource for products. They have a forum there also, which is divided by hair types:

http://www.naturallycurly.com/ They have awesome product reviews, and sell most of the prouct lines mentioned above.

Nappturality is a natural hair forums. Nappturality can come across as some what militant, but they have tons of good info.:

http://www.nappturality.com/

Long hair care forum and Black hair Media are mixed relaxed and natural message boards. LHCF is mostly women who are seeking to grow their hair, relaxed or natural. They only view weaves and wigs as protective styling to reach a goal.  I don’t go to BHM much, but I understand they have section specifically for things like weaves and wigs. LHCF you can register and lurk for free. If you pay the 6.50 to subscribe, you get to see all the forums and can post. I believe BHM is free for everything. On almost all the hair sites, women will have albums documenting their hair journey. Check the posts out for the links. If you want to keep a record of your journey, any of the free pic hosting sites will do.  One of the most popular is http://www.fotki.com/us/en/

http://www.longhaircareforum.com/

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/

Other sites:

____________

Happy Curls forum:

http://www.happycurls.com/v2/smf/

Keep It Simple Sista:

http://www.k-i-s-s.biz

Hairlista:

http://www.hairlista.com/

Here is another site with natual styles. I dont have a paid subscription to it so what I can see if it is limited:

http://going-natural.com/index.php

How to cornroll:

http://cornrows.co.uk/howto/howtobraidcornrowsx.html

This is the naturallycurly.com forum: http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/

Info on sister locs:

http://www.sisterlocks.com/

The sisterlocks lady has an awesome book called “That Hair Thing“. I bought it for my cousin, thinking it would tell how to do sisterlocks. It doesn’t, just tells how she came up with them, BUT it has awesome historical info and deals with mindsets of folx with natural hair. She goes into how beauty is perceived, and how black women are treated because we aren’t perceived to have it. Great book. You can use this link to see what it looks like. I found it at halfprice books. The sisterlocs site only has DVD’s now and I don’t know the content of them.

http://www.amazon.com/That-Hair-Thing-Sisterlocks-Approach/dp/0965742652

T’Keyah Crystal Keymah used to be on In Living Color. She has AWESOME hair. She has a book out, Natural Hair, Natural Woman. I don’t think amazon carries it anymore but you can get it on her site and on the naturally curly site posted above.

http://www.tkeyah.com/naturalhair.htm

If you go to amazon.com and search for natural hair or natural hair care, you will find lots of books too.

shower comb is your friend, relaxed or natural, for detangling. You can get one byJilbere at sally’s beauty supply. Conair has a verison I picked up at Target too. They are identical:

http://www.amazon.com/Conair-Brush-Pastels-Shower-Comb/dp/B001T8OF3U/ref=sr_1_18?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1286220677&sr=1-18

I also use Denman brushes. I have a D3 and a D4. The larger spaced one I can use for detangling, the smaller spaced one for smoothing my hair back for a pony tail:

http://www.denmanbrush.com/

Don’t try to comb your hair dry, for the most part it will cause breakage.

– – – –

I hope the information is helpful. I’m not anti-relaxer, but I do think these days most people relax because its expected, and they haven’t thought about if they want it or not. Don’t feel bad if it doesn’t work out the first time. A lot of people try 2-3 times before giving up relaxer’s completely. I think a lot of people get frustrated because there is a learning curve, and they try to treat their hair like it’s still straight and relaxed, and it doesn’t respond the same. Natural hair is not hard to handle, but its handled differently, so you just need to be patient. Also,  because of the chemicals, your texture may change. When you start out it may be harder to handle, or harder to keep soft and moisturized. This is called “scab hair” some folx don’t agree as to whether or not it exists, but I’m a believer. If you go natural, and your hair is dry no matter what you do, try the Qhemet products listed above. Also, black folx have lots of textures. Not everyone is going to end up with a black power Angela Davis fro. Your hair may be curvy or wavy, instead. You just need to learn your hair and what works for it. Good luck on your natural journey!..

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